Barolo 2004

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Antonio Galloni fjallar um Barolo 2004 árganginn í nýjasta Robert Parker The Wine Advocate.

Hann er í skýjunum með þennan nýja árgang sem kemur reyndar ekki á markað fyrr en í vor/haust.

136 Barolo vín af 2004 árgangi eru til umfjöllunar í greininni og eru okkar þrjú frá Luciano Sandrone og La Spinetta þar á meðal. Þau fá hörku fína einkunn, ekki síst Barolo-in frá Sandrone en Barolo Cannubi Boschis fær 98 stig og Barolo Le Vigne 96 stig á meðan að La Spinetta Barolo Campe fær 91-94 stig.

Aðeins eitt vín fær hærri einkunn (99 stig og kostar tvöfalt meira) en Cannubi Boschis í greininni. 98 stig eru hæsta einkunn sem tímaritið hefur gefið þessu rómaða víni fyrir utan 1990 árganginn sem fékk sömu einkunn. 96 stig er hins vegar hæsta einkunn sem Le Vigne hefur nokkru sinni fengið hjá Parker.

2004 árgangurinn ætti því að vera góður.

Galloni viðrar reyndar áhyggjur að verðin eigi eftir að hækka en ég hef ekki ennþá séð verðskrár framleiðandanna. Vonandi standa okkar vín í stað. Þau hafa kostað um 8.000 kr. hingað til sem þó verður að teljast prýðileg kaup miðað við allt, ekki síst þegar árgangurinn er framúrskarandi.

2003 árgangur af þessum vínum er til í svolitlu magni hjá okkur ennþá. Þau fást með sérpöntun fyrir utan Le Vigne sem fæst í Vínbúðunum.

Hér er svo öll umfjöllunin um vínin þrjú:

Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 200498
I was blown away by the breathtaking purity and definition of Sandrone’s 2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis. A translucent dark ruby, this weightless yet sumptuous Barolo bursts from the glass with layers of dark ripe fruit that coat the palate with stunning grace and elegance. As it sits in the glass notes of licorice, tar and sweet toasted oak gradually emerge to complete this magnificent wine. I tasted this along with the 2001, which has shut down considerably since I last tasted it earlier this year. Today the 2004 is the more elegant wine although the 2001 looks to be more powerful and perhaps longer-lived. My rating of the 2001 (95) appears to have been conservative by about 2 points. One of the highlights of the vintage, Sandrone’s 2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024

Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 200496
The 2004 Barolo Le Vigne is a phenomenal effort. Sweet, long and pure, it reveals an expansive core of perfumed ripe red fruit, flowers and spices. Despite its notable concentration it is made in a restrained style, showing remarkable elegance as well as harmony, with superb length and finessed tannins on the close. Le Vigne is made from the Ceretta, Vignane, Merli and Conterni vineyards. I have tasted the wines from these plots separately on many occasions. Curiously, I have never been particularly impressed by any of the wines on their own, yet when they are blended the results can be extraordinary, as is the case with the sublime 2004 Le Vigne. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2019

La Spinetta Barolo Campe 2004(91-94) – The 2004 Barolo Campe possesses a sweet core of opulent fruit along with notes of spices, leather and menthol that develop in the glass. It is a big, opulent Barolo yet it comes across as less fresh than the vintage-s top wines. An earlier than normal Moscato harvest forced Rivetti to delay the bottling of his Barolo, which I tasted from tank. I also tasted the Riserva version of this wine which was noticeably more vibrant and layered, reinforcing my view that the bottling of Riservas is reducing the quality of the normal wines. I will have a better idea of the potential of both 2004 Barolos once they are bottled this fall. “ (- Robert Parker The Wine Advocate (erobertparker.com))

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