Chablis frá Christian Moreau skorar hátt

Í næstu viku kemur sending af Chablis vínum frá Christian Moreau. Fyrirferðamest er Chablis 2008 sem þeir Moreau bændur og feðgar eru nýfarnir að setja í framleiðslu en hingað til hafa þeir eingöngu framleitt 1er og Grand Cru Chablis vín en ekki svona „venjulegt“ þorpsvín. Með í för verður líka eitt Rully hvítvín frá Vincent Girardin (meira um það síðar).

Vínin frá Christian Moreau hafa verið að skora hátt í amerísku pressunni undanfarið.

Tímaritið Wine Spectator sendir út tölvupóst til áskrifenda sinna undir fyrirsögninni „Hot Wines“ og „Editor’s Most Exciting Wines“ um það sem ber hæst í nýjasta tölublaði hverju sinni. Nú eru það Chablis vínin frá Moreau, 2008 árgangur. Þorpsvínið er ekki til umfjöllunar (2007 árgangur af því fékk reyndar „Top value“ stimpil og 88 stig á síðasta ári) en öll hin vín feðganna, frá 1er til Grand Cru, fá einkunnir á bilinu 92 til 95 stig. Ekki slæmt.

Burghound, sem sérhæfir sig í Búrgundarvínum, hefur alltaf verið hrifinn af vínunum frá Moreau feðgum og er 2007 og 2008 árgangar engin undantekning með einkunnir á bilinu 88 til 94 stig af hundrað.

Robert Parker. hefur ekki enn fjallað um 2008 árgang vínanna en 2007 fá á bilinu 88 til 92 stig og Stephen Tanzer gefur þeim frá 86 til 96 stig.

Það verða bara þrjú Chablis vín í þessari sendingu (feðgarnir framleiða alls átta ólík Chablis) og aðins tveir kassar af hvoru 1er og Grand Cru þar sem þau fást ekki í Vínbúðunum en hægt verður að sérpanta þau. Þau verða ekki ódýr þegar þau koma hingað en fyrir þá sem vilja öðru hvoru tryggja sér gott hágæða Chablis þá er óhætt að mæla með þeim. Þetta eru Chablis 2008, 1er Cru Vaillon 2008 og Grand Cru Les Clos 2007.

Þetta hafa sérfræðingarnir að segja um vínin þrjú:

Chablis 2008  

88-90 stig Burghound
A classic aromatic profile of green fruit, oyster shell and saline hints slide into racy and pure middle weight flavours where more minerality resurfaces on the punchy and lingering finish. This is a lovely villages and definately worth a look for both value and quality. 2012+

86-89 Stephen Tanzer
Candied fruits lifted by violet and the nose. Sweet and creamy but high-pitched, with floral and orange peel flavors framed by bright acidity. There´s a slight exotic fruit quality here that Fabien Moreau says will disappear. A bit tricky to taste today on its finings.

Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon 2008

92 stig Wine Spectator
Rich and creamy, with hints of vanilla and spice augmenting the peach, melon and yellow plum. Beautifully integrated now, with a lingering aftertaste of spice and mineral. Should only get better. Best from 2011 through 2022.

90-93 stig Burghound
A less elegant but more expressive nose features notes of mineral reduction, iodine and oyster shell that are also reflected in varying degrees by the very rich and full-bodied flavors that are less complex but possess the same lenght on the driving and balanced finish. 2013+

90-92 Stephen Tanzer
Crystallized orange and lemon peel aromas. Sweet, creamy and tactile with lovely palate-saturating fruit and gingery spice flavors. Finishes with terrific lift and length.

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2007

93 stig Burghound
This is perhaps the most aromatically elegant wine in the range today with its airy, pure and layered nose of white flower, lemon peel, hint of wod spice, white peach and oyster shell nuances that seem even stronger on the impressively scaled broad-shouldered flavors that possess a beguiling texture as well as an almost painfully intense, palate staining and austere finish that is bone dry. In a word, gorgeous. 2014+

92 stig Robert Parker
The Moreau 2007 Chablis Les Clos mingles fresh white peach, rhubarb, orange zest, and vanilla in the nose, and comes to the palate with a corresponding sense of invigoration, refreshment and tart, pungent chew, even as one registers a distinct sense of underlying chalk and stone. Les Clos is not about richness (except of extract) this year, and Moreau’s dense Clos underscores that point. Utilizing a technique reminiscent of Meursault’s Patrick Javillier, Moreau reports that he vinifies three separate lots with different barrel and lees regimens to enhance the complexity of the final, blended wine. There is a severity and practically blazing intensity to the finish that’s not loveable, but certainly is formidable. I’d give this several years in the bottle, and would not anticipate it fading inside of a decade. 

93 (+?) stig Stephen Tanzer
 Pale, bright yellow. Knockout nose projects lemon oil, crushed stone, spices and minerals. As creamy as this is in the mouth, it’s most notable for its sheer energy and verve, with lemon and crushed stone flavors that pulsate in the middle palate and on the very long aftertaste. A classic vintage for this wine. Chrstian Moreau reminded me that the family’s major parcel of Clos goes from the bottom to the top of this grand cru. Fabien does three different vinifications before blending the lots at the end. Part of this cuvee went back into barrels for five months following the racking after the malolactic fermentaion. 

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Filed under christian moreau, dómar, vín

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